Install

Get the latest updates as we post them — right on your browser

. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

Tasty Beers in the Burbs

MTPiffnoi raises the bar in the outer-suburban beer restaurant scene.
Beer restaurants outside the center just keep improving with each and every opening, or so it would seem judging by the recent opening of Piffnoi. The new restaurant, the name of which is a cute play on the Russian word for alehouse -- "Pivnoi" -- does a lot of things right. While not breaking any new ground conceptually, it manages to mix proven culinary and design elements to good effect.

The large interior features such rustic elements as heavyset wooden furniture upholstered in dark leather with some more modern touches such comfortable leather sofas and recessed lighting. A large screen shows retro Soviet films with the sound off but with Russian subtitles. The restaurant is divided into smoking and nonsmoking sections, and the division is strictly enforced. Fresh air might also be found on its covered veranda, although it is set back from a fairly busy street.

The menu features all the usual beer-friendly suspects such as chicken wings (260 rubles), boiled crayfish (540 rubles), boiled or fried prawns (220 rubles) and fried garlic black bread (160 rubles). The restaurant also prepares dishes on a Spanish Josper char grill, such as salmon steak (320 rubles), rack of lamb (580 rubles) and rib eye steak (820 rubles).

Most appealing, however, is Piffnoi's own smokehouse where dishes are hot smoked to order using various woods. Smoky treats include mackerel (330 rubles), pork ribs (350 rubles) and sturgeon (580 rubles).

The beer selection is good, better than is often found in Moscow's pubs. Besides its own light, house beer (100 rubles a half-liter), there are two unfiltered beers (Franziskaner -- 160 rubles a half-liter, Hoegaarden -- 170 rubles a half-liter), various Czech, Dutch and German beers plus the British beers Tennent's (175 rubles a half-liter) and Boddingtons (175 rubles a half-liter).

66 Profsoyuznaya Ul., 506-6684, noon-midnight, M. Noviye Cheryomushki.