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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

Slow and Steady Wins

MTVincitore is a place for those with conservative tastes in food and decor.
Classical and restrained restaurants don't seem to open all that often these days. Classical baroque or rococo design is not uncommon, and you don't have to look to far to find some restrained minimalism, but a combination of classical and restrained just doesn't fit with today's fickle fashions. Vincitore, however, features both.

The interior is tastefully reserved. The ceilings are paneled in dark wood, as is the bar area and several cabinets, which are free of any thematic knickknacks. The tables are draped in starched, white tablecloths and the chairs dressed in maroon covers. There is no Fashion TV or loud pop music.

The menu doesn't stray far from the above formula -- it lists a conservative mix of European dishes without any great surprises. In Moscow, what salads could be more tried and trusted than ruccola with tiger prawns, Parmesan and Balsamic vinegar (330 rubles), Caesar (prawn 360 rubles, salmon 360 rubles and chicken 280 rubles), Greek (260 rubles) or even an olivye with chicken, crab and crayfish (490 rubles)? Cold starters are similarly safe bets -- tartare of salmon (320 rubles) and of tuna (590 rubles), carpaccio of salmon (320 rubles) and of beef (340 rubles).

There's a decent range of pastas and risottos ranging from 280 rubles for fettuccini with four cheeses up to 920 rubles for risotto with squid ink, prawn bisque, crab and sweet peas. Mains include duck breast with mango, pineapple and baked apple (490 rubles), filet mignon with foie-gras, vegetable lasagna, mozzarella and Porto sauce (650 rubles), and fillet of salmon with walnuts and caviar cream sauce (440 rubles). For those who feel like splurging, there is a whole turbot with porcini, cherry tomatoes, olives and white wine (4,500 rubles). As should be expected with prices starting at around 1,000 rubles a bottle, the wine list is decent.

Perhaps because it is at heart an old-world kind of place, Vincitore is rather unhurried. It's not the spot for a quick bite to eat -- better to set aside a whole evening for lazing back with a glass of wine in the substantial wait between courses.

27 Dolgorukovskaya Ul., Bldg. 1-2, 250-2551, noon-last guest, M. Novoslobodskaya.