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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

Ravioli on the Riverside

MTIsola Pinocchio has a no-frills design concept , save those copper balls.
When the Pinocchio pizzeria on Kamergersky Pereulok closed, it was a sad day for fans of al fresco Italian dining. Not only did it make some of the best pizza and pasta to be found downtown, its outdoor area was one of the city's best.

Those who miss the superb pizzas can still find them at Pinocchio's Kutuzovsky Prospekt and Rublyovo pizzerias. But what about those who miss the courtyard?

With warmer weather just around the corner, the good news is that another Pinocchio has opened -- and although it doesn't have pizza, it's got an excellent veranda with Moscow River views.

Located in Bashnya 2000, Isola Pinocchio is a large restaurant, although quite low-ceilinged. A wall of windows lets in ample light, however, providing river views even when it's too cold to sit outside.

The beige interior eschews fuss and frills -- its most interesting feature is giant copper spheres, resembling metallic balls of string, under the tables.

Unlike the Kamergersky pizzeria, Isola Pinocchio is an upscale restaurant, which is reflected in both the dishes and their prices. One interesting option is the fresh vegetable salad: Choose your vegetables (small portion 400 rubles, large 600 rubles) and one of the various aged balsamic vinegars -- from 10 grams aged for 12 years at 250 rubles, up to 10 grams of balsamic aged for 40 years for 1,600 rubles. There are two varieties of ham -- 24-month aged Parma (50 grams for 700 rubles) or Prosciutto di San Danielle (750 rubles) -- both sliced at the guest's table and served with a small focaccia, Parmesan, rosemary, vegetables and olive oil.

There are various pastas with an arrabiata, pesto or garlic with hot pepper sauce, all 450 rubles. Ravioli stuffed with ginger, prawns and vegetables under a shellfish sauce costs 600 rubles, and crab cannelloni with broccoli puree costs 800 rubles. There is also a wide range of significantly pricier fish and meat mains.

Wine by the glass starts at 320 rubles for white and 360 rubles for red. Bottles start at 2,300 rubles for an Italian white.

23a Naberezhnaya Tarasa Shevchenko, 730-4400/0818, noon-last guest, M. Delovoi Tsentr, www.pinocchio-rest.ru