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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

Stylish Sausage Spots

MTDymov No. 1 features many of Arkady Novikov's signature touches.
There was a time when beer was married to crayfish and no silly sausage could come between them. But over the last few years, the two have been falling out for the "wurst" of reasons -- a veritable sausage surge has swept the humble crayfish from the menus of Moscow's beerhouses.

The blame must lie with the Germans, who have insidiously led this banger blitzkrieg via all manner of German-themed taverns and alehouses. Arkady Novikov has finally joined the fray by collaborating with sausage magnate Vadim Dymov to create beer-restaurant chain Dymov No. 1.

Yet this is no Germanic enclave -- there are no lederhosen or dirndl in sight. Rather, the Dymov No. 1 chain is a very modern Moscow beer restaurant. It would seem that the spell of repetition really is on Novikov, as the interior design smacks of many of the touches found in his recently opened restaurants such as Ju-Ju and Nedalny Vostok. The use of repetition in particular is a common theme, with Dymov's shelves lined up with row upon row of bottles and glassware. The white walls are hung with photos of the staff (including Dymov and Novikov themselves), which adds a democratic but hip touch.

Given the modern minimalist interior, the Dymov beer chain would seem to be competing in the same niche as the Tinkoff microbrewery restaurant. Unlike Tinkoff, however, Dymov serves only two house beers, a light unfiltered and red unfiltered (both 140 rubles a half liter). What it lacks in its variety of house beers (it does have a decent range of other beers) it compensates for with its multitude of meats. A good starting point is the mixed-meat platter. The rather ample "small" serving (390 rubles) includes a wide selection of hams and salamis. There are eight varieties of sausages available, including some with cheese and poppy seeds (270 rubles) and with four peppers (290 rubles).

The old-school Russian beer drinker need not fret, however: Dymov does offer crayfish, at 120 rubles a critter.

34 Sofiiskaya Nab., 951-7571/3571, 11 a.m.-last guest, Fri. & Sat. 24 hours, M. Novokuznetskaya; 6 Ul. Malaya Dmitrovka, 699-0770, 24 hours, M. Pushkinskaya.