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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

History Plus Modernity

MTA vaulted ceiling and bright mural add to Krasnoye Selo's tourist appeal.
If it weren't so out of the way, Krasnoye Selo would be the perfect tourist restaurant. It's got the history, being located in the basement of a 19th-century merchant Pavel Malyutin's former mansion. It also has a tourist-pleasing interior -- the cellar has a vaulted redbrick ceiling, and one wall features a mural of medieval Slavic folk enjoying a feast. The overall historical atmosphere is somewhat tempered by the use of modern lighting, fittings and flat-screen televisions.

Although a couple of Caesar salads (with tiger prawns 390 rubles, chicken 270 rubles) have snuck onto the menu, Krasnoye Selo essentially serves a classical selection of Russian dishes -- just the trick for satisfying the gastronomic to-do list of foreign guests.

The large but lighter-than-usual Olivye salad (350 rubles) is the most expensive on the menu and is said to follow an original 1904 recipe, including quail eggs, crayfish, red caviar and very little mayonnaise among other regular Olivye ingredients. The least-expensive is a mixed fresh vegetable salad with pumpkin seeds dressed with country-style vegetable oil (170 rubles).

Other classic starters include herring with potato and onion (150 rubles), smoked sturgeon with lemon and horseradish cream (300 rubles) and a tasty selection of salted vegetables (230 rubles). Soups include Ukrainian borshch (150 rubles), two sorts of solyanka (fish 190 rubles, meat 150 rubles) and Boyar shchi (150 rubles).

Hot mains include chicken Kiev (200 rubles), beef stroganoff (280 rubles) and Siberian pelmeni made from three varieties of meat (250 rubles).

Krasnoye Selo sells its own house beer for 60 rubles per half-liter. There is no vodka listed on the menu, but it is still available if you ask, starting at 90 rubles per 50 grams of Russky Standart.

40 Nizhnyaya Krasnoselskaya Ul., bldg. 8, 101-2222, 984-6931, noon-last guest, M. Krasnoselskaya.