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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

The Not-So-Far East

MTThe open kitchen with its black-clad chefs is particularly striking.
Arkady Novikov has once again raised the bar with the Jan. 25 opening of his latest creation, Nedalny Vostok. With both its inventive menu and slick interior design, it's unlikely to be superseded in this city any time soon -- it's that good.

Nedalny Vostok describes itself as a pan-Asian restaurant -- but don't expect to find any chow mein on the menu. Australian chef Glen Ballis has been brought in to produce a super modern mix of Asian influences with European touches. And perhaps playing on the restaurant's name, which means "not-Far East," the star of the show is Kamchatka crab. The menu commences with a whole page of starters, soups and main courses all featuring the scrumptious crustacean, such as crab salad with beets and green pea sauce (650 rubles), pumpkin soup with crab meat, carrot and ginger (450 rubles) and wok-fried forest mushrooms with crab meat and coriander (1,050 rubles).

The regular menu is no less appetizing. Tuna in pepper sauce with Japanese egg rolls (750 rubles), Sichuan-style scallops with pureed cauliflower (600 rubles) and wok-fried eggplant with calamari (450 rubles) are notable. A Russian influence sneaks onto the menu in the form of porridges, such as wheat porridge with sea bass (650 rubles) and pelmeni, including lamb and coriander (550 rubles). There is also a selection of innovative sushi and rolls. What's lacking in the serving sizes is more than compensated for in the sophisticated flavors.

The dessert menu is particularly impressive. Japanese confectioner Katsuhiko Kobayashi, who has worked in numerous Michelin-rated restaurants, has created an innovative selection that includes such enticing options as fig baked in spiced wine served with olive ice cream (450 rubles) and apple and wortleberry dessert served with green-tea mousse (350 rubles).

The striking multi-zone interior was created by the hip Japanese design team Superpotato. Besides glass walls filled with cinnamon sticks, grains, dried chilies and other produce, the open kitchen with its chefs clad in black, ninja-like uniforms is especially impressive.

15 Tverskoi Bulvar, Bldg. 2, 694-0641/0154, noon-midnight, M. Pushkinskaya.