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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

Go to Town at Lunch

MTGorozhanin is a pleasant place to go for lunch — or even breakfast.
Lunch-goers in the Lubyanka-Chistiye Prudy area are in luck: A new democratic eatery has opened, with affordable prices and tasty food.

Gorozhanin, from the restaurateurs behind upmarket Sudar, has taken over the former premises of overpriced and uninspiring Frukty Ovoshchi, right across the road from posh Portofino.

Much like at Sudar, Gorozhanin has a decidedly historical flavor. Besides turn-of-last-century advertising posters, it is decorated with nostalgic murals of urban scenes, perhaps playing on the cafe's name, which translates as townsman. A transport theme is also expressed, with cast-iron fittings typical of old railway stations -- much like at even-more-democratic Vokzal. A signpost gives the distance to other world cities reachable by rail, and the menu's offerings are presented as destinations.

The breakfast menu runs from 8 a.m. to midday and includes omelets (40-90 rubles), fried eggs (30-75 rubles), porridge (60 rubles) and the house-special Gorozhanin omelet with bacon, cheese, tomatoes, onion and herbs (120 rubles).

A lunch smorgasbord runs from noon to 4 p.m. in one of Gorozhanin's three halls, while the other two offer an a la carte menu.

Each item on the international a la carte menu is named after a city and state, indicating its gastronomic influences. Oslo, Norway is marinated salmon with mustard sauce (205 rubles), while the foie gras with croutons and raspberry sauce (230 rubles) is called Paris, France. Penne arrabbiata with parmesan (180 rubles) is granted a Rome, Italy tag, while the beer-battered cod with chips and tartar sauce (335 rubles) is named London, England. There are plenty of Russian destinations as well.

The selection of wines is decent, starting at a competitive 500 rubles per bottle and 80 rubles per glass. The draft beer range is also appealing, starting at 60 rubles for a half-liter of Zolotaya Bochka. Britain's Bowman Stout is especially good value at 165 rubles per half-liter -- making this not only a good lunch spot but ideal for after-work drinks as well.

13/1/22 Milyutinsky Per., Bldg. 4, 739-0109, 8 a.m.-midnight, M. Chistiye Prudy.