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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

Go Overboard for Azeri

MTZa Bortom became Ugolok Vostoka after only a minor makeover.
Za Bortom, a maritime-themed restaurant featured on these pages in April, has sailed off into the sunset, to be replaced by a new Azeri restaurant called Ugolok Vostoka.

The interior has changed little -- it has been stripped of the seafaring paraphernalia, but the basic wooden fit-out remains. Most significantly, the backlit photographs of nautical scenes that covered the windows have been removed, and natural light now finds its way inside.

The menu lists some Russian and other European offerings, but it's all about the Azeri at Ugolok Vostoka or "Little Corner of the East." The collection of Azeri dishes is huge -- enough to overwhelm the uninitiated.

A choban vegetable salad with tomato, cucumber, red onion and chili costs 250 rubles; a mixed Baku vegetable salad costs 250 rubles; and tomatoes stuffed with three varieties of cheese goes for 190 rubles. There is an interesting selection of sheep's milk cheeses, including motal and shor (both 150 rubles), as well as matsoni farmer's cheese (40 rubles).

Dushbara soup with small dumplings costs 160 rubles, as does the chickpea and mutton soup piti.

There several varieties of plov, including one with lamb for 230 rubles and a sabzi plov with beef for 230 rubles. The regular sadzh selection is large, with nine varieties ranging from 570 rubles for chicken up to 980 rubles for sturgeon. The shashlik selection is simply enormous and lists just about every internal (and external) organ imaginable. Prices start at 180 rubles for numerous varieties of internal wiggly bits on sticks, up to 460 rubles for a more conservative sturgeon shashlik. And for a hardcore breakfast with a difference, there's the variety-meat soup khash (180 rubles).

Azeri wine is available -- dry as well as sweet -- and starts at 120 rubles a glass. Beer starts at 110 rubles for a half-liter of Zolotaya Bochka.

10 Nizhnyaya Radishchevskaya Ul., Bldg. 1, 915-6206, 24 hours,

M. Taganskaya.