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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

Chinese in the Frypan

MTDiners in Skovorodka's Chinese section can watch the chefs at work.
Skovorodka, a new retro-Soviet restaurant in a building created to resemble a giant frying pan, has just gotten better. It has added a fresh drawing card in the form of a new Asian hall -- Kitaiskaya Skovorodka, or Chinese Frying Pan.

Skovorodka already was a fun kind of place, with its collages of old Soviet advertisements and illustrations from "The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food." The inexpensive Russian menu features greatest hits from days gone by, with many of the dishes based on recipes used at historical restaurants.

The new Chinese section, with its open kitchen, is located on the ground floor, where Skovorodka's little-used coffee shop once was, and is decorated in an Asian-flavored style. Besides the ubiquitous sushi, it offers a good range of Chinese dishes and, most important, a special section of wok stir-fries served on sizzling frying pans.

Salads start from 80 rubles for Sichuan cucumber salad and climb up to 290 rubles for tiger prawns with pineapple in a sweet-spicy sauce. Soups include one with pork pelmeni, green onion, sea scallops and prawns (140 rubles) and a classic sweet and sour (120 rubles).

Dumplings come both fried and steamed, with 125 rubles buying fried prawn and salmon dumplings, and 210 rubles buying fried pork dumplings. The steamed dumplings all cost 180 rubles and include pork, beef, lamb and prawn varieties. Spring roll options include vegetarian and chicken, both costing 145 rubles. If you're willing to spend a bit more, the 390-ruble wasabi prawns are a good choice.

Peking duck can be ordered quartered (300 rubles), halved (600 rubles) or whole (1,200 rubles). The wok menu is straightforward with four options: mixed vegetable (210 rubles), beef (240 rubles), lamb (240 rubles) and pork (230 rubles).

The beverage menu includes draft Baltika (90 rubles a half-liter), Kirin (180 rubles) and an intriguing bamboo beer (150 rubles).

The free shots of vodka and assorted zakuski at the door make for a warm welcome when you arrive -- and put you in the mood for a return visit.

14b Simonovsky Val Ul., 674-0033, 11 a.m.-midnight, M. Proletarskaya.