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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

Beryozka Branches Out

MTBeryozka now makes its own sausages and brews its own beer.
Bangers 'n' beer, pelmeni 'n' vodka -- these two classic combinations meet head to head at Beryozka Pelmeni Bar.

What could have been a muddled mishmash has turned out with good results. The eatery toes the design line deftly, neither sliding into Bavarian beer barn territory nor slipping into rustic village pelmennaya cliches. The cozy interior is uncluttered and modern, with a solid pastel color scheme, exposed painted brickwork and only some birch-tree trunks standing about the restaurant adding a bucolic feel.

Running along the center of the main room is a set of small tables, each sporting its own beer station with two beer taps -- one dark and one light. As at Pyaty Okean or its little brother Pyatok, Beryozka brews its own beer, Nikoloyamskoye, and serves it directly via handy taps straight to the table. A meter tallies the milliliters (90 rubles per 500 milliliters). A fun touch is the mini flat-screen televisions mounted between the taps at every table showing old Soviet films.

Teaming up with the homebrews are handmade sausages. They come in eight varieties, all 285 rubles a portion, with the exception of the Caspian sausages (450 rubles) stuffed with sturgeon, cedar nut and sage. Other sausage options include Mexican chorizo, turkey and green apple, and lamb with Paraguay pumpkin. An assortment of any four sorts costs 550 rubles.

Beryozka calls itself a pelmeni bar, and the dumpling selection doesn't disappoint. There are nine varieties available, and with the exception of the venison and salmon (both 150 rubles), the other choices all sell for 130 rubles a portion. Further pelmeni possibilities include lamb, beef, pork, spicy with all three meats, chicken and turkey mix and seafood.

There are plenty of regular Russian dishes on the menu as well, but then it's hard to see why anyone would want to stray from the two sound staples.

Of course, the vodka selection is just as diverse as the pelmeni and includes numerous flavored as well as neutral varieties. Prices start at 65 rubles for the flavored Na Beryozovykh Bruhkakh or Gorilka. Russky Standart costs 90 rubles.

29 Nikoloyamskaya Ul., Bldg. 1, 915-5467, 11 a.m.-midnight, M. Taganskaya.