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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

Revamp for Eat Street

MTUpmarket Ulitsa follows a tried and tested formula in both its interior design and menu.
The basement of the Hotel Tverskaya has seen a few restaurants come and go in its time. Chesnok i Perets briefly served its garlic- and pepper-infused dishes here, but soon closed. Then along came the shashlyk restaurant Mangal, which also closed shortly after it opened. The latest to try its luck is Ulitsa.

Taking a different tack than its predecessors, Ulitsa has chosen to go upmarket. The color scheme conservatively sticks with the flavor of the moment among the city's more swish establishments -- vanilla and chocolate. The chairs follow suit, clad in what looks like brown linen dresses with a white sash tied around the waist.

The restaurant's name means "street" and it vaguely follows that theme, with a few photos of city scenes from Paris, New York and Rio. The ceiling in one room is decorated with segments of world maps. The last room has a mishmash of ethnic designs, including some tribal masks and South American motifs. The restaurant's makeover has not yet extended to the coat check tokens, however, which still bear the Chesnok i Perets logo.

Given Ulitsa's upmarket aspirations, its not surprising that the prices on the European/Russian menu are rather high. A diminutive calamari salad with Chinese seasoning is 420 rubles, while a Caesar-like hot salmon salad with lettuce costs 340 rubles. Hot starters include mussel ragout (380 rubles) and frog legs with vegetables (340 rubles). Seafood mains range from 560 rubles up to 1,500 rubles for sturgeon. Meat dishes are similarly priced, reaching up to 1,500 for rib-eye steak, while poultry dishes average around 550 rubles.

The most interesting section of the menu is the beer, with a range that would normally only be found in a specialist bar or restaurant. There are 16 bottled varieties, ranging from 180 rubles to 250 rubles, plus a concise draft beer selection that's expensive and eclectic: the Czech beer Podkovan (220 rubles a half-liter), the German smoked wheat beer Rauchbier Marzen (300 rubles a half-liter) and German unfiltered dark and light Engels (270 rubles).

10 Tverskaya Ul. 692-1340, 24 hours, M. Tverskaya.