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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

How Much Is the Fish

MTFilimonova i Yankel has a relaxed atmosphere and inexpensive seafood.
First came the steakhouse -- and now there's the fish house.

Filimonova i Yankel is a new "fish house" from RP-Com, the restaurateurs behind the Goodman steakhouse chain. Calling it that instead of a "seafood restaurant" is more than just a gimmick, according to RP-Com.

"Only the very rich can allow themselves to order a fresh fish, not paying any attention to how much it costs," said Natalya Filimonova, manager of the restaurant, after whom, together with Israeli chef Shein Yankel, the restaurant is named. Most Moscow seafood restaurants list their fish prices by weight, forcing customers to either act like money is no object, order blindly and hope for the best when the bill comes, or else miserly ask the waiter to weigh each fish until something suitable is found. In Filimonova i Yankel's fish house concept, a new menu is produced daily: Each fish is listed with a fixed price, as in a steakhouse, rather than a price per 100 grams.

And the fish prices are reasonable by Moscow standards: a 500- to 600- gram dorado or sea bass fish goes for 670 rubles; a 400-gram smoked trout sells for 460 rubles. The sides are all priced at 180 rubles, which is relatively good value for the snow peas, but pricey for the potato wedges. The best deal on the menu would have to be the seafood grill with vegetables (580 rubles), a tasty portion of grilled calamari, scallops and prawns with grilled vegetables. As there was no liquor license, wine was for free for several weeks after its late-December opening.

Entry is through a hallway lined with photographs on various nautical and piscatorial themes. The high-ceilinged interior is bright and modern, fitted out with ample light wood and photographs similar to those at the entrance. Although the location inside a large shopping center detracts from the charm, it does allow for great views out its huge window overlooking Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya Ulitsa.

A second Filimonova i Yankel's is to replace RP-Com's Le Gateau cafe on Tverskaya Ulitsa in the near future.

2 Ploshchad Yevropy, inside the Yevropeisky shopping center, 223-0707, noon-midnight, M. Kievskaya.