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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

Smoky Secrets at Market

For MTFresh fish on ice is not the only good reason to come to Market.
Market is an interesting seafood restaurant. Unlike most in this city, it doesn't follow the recent trend for simple Mediterranean-style grilled fish. Instead, it recreates an Asian seafood and vegetable market, where diners can choose ingredients from wicker baskets full of fresh vegetables and seafood on ice, then send it all off to be stir-fried in a large wok. Judging by the number of customers this expensive establishment attracts, it would seem that the Asian mix is a winning formula.

However, fine wines and seafood stir-fries are not the only reason to come: A visit to Market can take an entirely different turn. Rather than settling on a multiple-course crab-and-scallop extravaganza, look past the boastful selection on the ice beds and you will see a little secret stashed on a modest table -- Market's hot-smoked fish.

Order a half-liter of appropriately pricey Radeberger (260 rubles) or Erdinger (290 rubles) and peruse the smoky selection. The smoked halibut fillet (3.20 rubles a gram, or 480 rubles for a 150-gram portion) is as light as a feather and subtly flavored. The smoked trout (2 rubles a gram, or 300 rubles for a 150-gram fish) is particularly delectable, with a more robust flavor than the halibut. The diminutive icefish (1.70 rubles a gram, or 127.50 rubles for a 75-gram serving), although slightly drier, still makes for a tasty beer snack.

Market prepares all its smoked fish on the premises daily. It smokes the same fish that are sold fresh (for the same prices), and as such it cannot be compared with what you might find at your local deli -- it's way too delicately cured to withstand any form of packaging or transport.

18 Sadovaya-Samotyochnaya Ul., Bldg. 1, 209-4131, noon-midnight. M. Tsvetnoi Bulvar.