Install

Get the latest updates as we post them — right on your browser

. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

THE TROUGH




Hope you had your kasha this morning, because Sunday brunch at the Cafe Taiga is a bit of a hit or miss: Some of the dishes are delicious, others are merely ordinary.


Main courses at the Taiga include a variety of meat dishes featuring everything from beef to pigeon. There are also several vegetarian dishes including ratatouille, stuffed green peppers and a crunchy quiche. The bliny aren't as good as the ones your babushka makes, but they're at least an improvement on the greasy pancakes sold at street kiosks. A number of unmarked salads of unknown content are also on offer: a fish salad, a purple salad, at least a dozen mayonnaise-saturated salads and a few others. Noticeably missing, however, is a fruit salad. There is, however, a dessert table piled with cakes and pastries f the gorgeous, tasteless kind, with the exception of an incredible chocolate cream cake with cognac. Sparkling wine is also served.


By far, the best part of a Cafe Taiga brunch is the atmosphere, which nearly makes up for the mediocre quality of the food. The Taiga's cozy dining room is decorated in warm colors and a jazz band and a folk ensemble take turns entertaining diners. If that's not enough to make your morning a pleasant one, though, skip the Aerostar this Sunday.


$31 per person, children 12 and under free until July 31. In the Aerostar Hotel, located at 37 Leningradsky Prospekt, Building 9. Metro Dynamo. Tel. 213-9000. Brunch is served from noon to 4 p.m. on Sundays. Credit cards: all.


f Julie Marquardt


This is the first in a series of reviews of weekend brunches at hotels and restaurants all over the city. Look for other reviews in coming weeks.