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. Last Updated: 07/27/2016

THE TROUGH




If you're looking to discover a new frontier in Russia, don't look east to Siberia - head to the Louisiana Steakhouse, a new restaurant straight out of the Wild West of 19th-century America.


The Louisiana Steakhouse is laid out like a typical Gold-Rush-era saloon: period posters cover the walls in the two dining rooms, the Sheriff's Room and Dalton's Verandah, where General Custer, Sitting Bull and Annie Oakley keep you company.


Oddly, despite that this little island of Americana is in Moscow's center, the waiters insist the restaurant is the genuine article: "We are American because we are from the same planet [as Americans]," one said.


The food at the Louisiana Steakhouse isn't limited to meat and potatoes, like at many similar American venues. The menu - good for a chuckle for all its mistranslations, including one that says the restaurant's aim is to "subdue" its patrons - features Mexican dishes, pizza, fondues and even Solyanka soup as well as the usual filet mignon and Black Angus.


We started with a bracing Captain's Grog ($4) and a frothy draught Guinness beer ($5), as songs of lonesome cowboys and their long-lost loves played in the background.


Our papaya and cold meat appetizer ($7) was served with a spicy horseradish sauce that paled next to the fiery hot Mexican chicken appetizer's ($7) dressing, which probably could've been used to brand livestock.


My Kansas City steak ($16.50) arrived sizzling on a cast-iron platter shaped like a cow. It was such an enormous cut of meat, it was all I could do not to cry out, "I didn't order the whole animal!" The steak, however, proved so tasty that I devoured it as well as the four free side dishes that come with every main. My companion ordered the Royal Gift ($17.50), a scrumptious selection of salmon, sturgeon, scallops and royal shrimp.


At the Louisiana Steakhouse, any single entree is easily enough for two people. Even without dessert, we were stuffed. The restaurant had indeed accomplished its goal - we were thoroughly, exhaustively subdued.


Louisiana Steakhouse, 30 Pyatnitskaya Ulitsa. Metro Tretyakovskaya. Tel. 951-4244. 11 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. Credit cards: V, MC, DC.


- Robin Munro