I've met people who eat three square meals a day with nary a snack in between. I think they have some chromosome I'm missing. These are the iron-willed people who meet you at a restaurant and don't order anything, claiming they've ""already eaten,"" then watch in horrified silence as you single-handedly inhale an entire plate of buffalo wings in under a minute. Happily, modern science came along with an appellation to legitimize us compulsive snackers. We are grazers. Existing in a blissful state of bovine indifference to our surroundings and our waistlines, we graze, nibbling here, munching there, never far from the hors d'oeuvres table, never able to eat just one. Hence this week's restaurant review: Vermel. ""It's a bar,"" you say. Well, yes, but they serve inexpensive Russian food, and a true grazer is always on the prowl.