Articles by Chloe Arnold



Still Doing It Daily 15 Years On

Lots of cities around the world have English-language newspapers. Most are fairly undistinguished. But somehow The Moscow Times -- from the day it first came off the printing presses 15 years ago to now -- has punched above its weight.

Memories of 24 Ulitsa Pravdy

I switched on the television on Monday to see a woman in a charred white coat weeping in terror as ambulance workers tried to calm her down. Moments later it dawned on me that I knew her.

Elmar Husseinov's Brazen Legacy

I first met Elmar Husseinov, the editor of Monitor magazine who was killed outside his flat in Baku this week, three years ago.

A Fond Farewell to My Home in Azerbaijan

I am sitting on my suitcase as I write this. I leave Azerbaijan this week heading east -- to Sri Lanka and then to India.

The Times May Change but Mops Stay the Same

The Cold War is over, the Berlin Wall's been sold off in pocket-sized chunks to American tourists, and Mikhail Gorbachev and Eduard Shevardnadze, the brains behind the whole operation, have gone into retirement. But there's one thing that's stubbornly resisted the collapse of communism in the former Soviet Union: the humble mop.

Azeri Beaches: A Long Way From St. Tropez

High summer has arrived in Baku. The sidewalks are melting, children are playing in the fountains and watermelon sellers have set up shop in every available piece of shade on the streets of the capital.

Georgia's Traffic Cops Start to Straighten Up

Ask most residents of the former Soviet Union about traffic police, and they'll come out with a long list of expletives.

South Ossetians Feel a Strong Pull to the North

Not for the first time, South Ossetia, a tiny province in northern Georgia, is on the brink of war.

Real Men Drive, Phone and Die on Azeri Roads

Hold onto your hats: Formula One motor racing is coming to Azerbaijan. At least that's what the Ministry of Youth, Sport and Tourism hopes.

Of Roasted Brians and Other National Cousins

They say the world's most widely spoken language is bad English, and looking around Baku I think they might have a point.

Abashidze Mouthpiece Is Breathing Freedom

Six weeks ago, Adzharia TV was the mouthpiece of Aslan Abashidze, the eccentric, silver-haired leader of Georgia's tiny Adzharia province on the Black Sea.

Organic Farmer Hopes to Rake In the Lettuce

Samad Abasguliyev has a vision. In five years' time, he wants his tiny lettuce farm on a dusty patch of the Absheron peninsula -- once the most polluted stretch of coastline in the world -- to export fresh organic produce to international markets.

Baku's Building Boom Reveals Grave Inequity

If you can judge a country's economy by the amount of construction work going on, Azerbaijan is booming.

Azeri Village Poised on the Edge of the Abyss

Hussein Ali is not a happy man.

The Rising Cost of Poor Azeri Healthcare

To look at the row of boutique shops that just opened round the corner from my house, selling Versace shirts, Armani suits and Manolo Blahnik shoes at crippling prices, you'd never guess that Azerbaijan has an infant mortality rate similar to some of the poorest countries in Africa.

Nagorny Karabakh: 10 Years and Counting

Tergul Husseinova used to live in a little wooden house with geraniums in the window boxes and chickens scratching in the yard.

In Georgia, Ivanov's the Angel of Political Death

They called it the second Rose Revolution, but they could have called it the curse of Igor Ivanov.

Swamped by Deluge of Child-Rearing Advice

If there's one thing Azeris love more than their own children, it is other people's children.

Street Protests Are Now a Craze in the Caucasus

Georgians do it outside parliament. Azeris do it along the Caspian Sea coast. And last week, Armenians were doing it in Freedom Square in their thousands, until the police sent them home.

Azeri-Armenian Strife Has Been Set in Stone

I had never seen people queuing to get into a cemetery until last Saturday.

It All Comes Down to How You Define 'Sea'

It's a time-honored conundrum that has set the five countries surrounding the Caspian Sea at odds since the Soviet Union's demise: Is it a sea or a lake?

Georgia's Single-Party Rule Is No Bed of Roses

It couldn't have been more different from last time. In November, thousands of people turned up on election day only to be told they weren't eligible to vote.

Rogue Priest at Large Gets His Comeuppance

Georgians are a religious bunch. As well as going to church every Sunday, they often stop off to light candles to their favorite saints on their way home from work.

What on Earth Will Neighbors Do Next?

It's never quiet for long next door in Georgia, and this weekend the war of words between President Mikheil Saakashvili and the eccentric leader of the renegade Adzharia region threatened to turn into an all-out conflict.

Brutal Murder Stokes Karabakh War Passions

It was a routine training course in Hungary: Army officers from eastern European countries had been sent to Budapest to learn English as part of NATO's Partnership for Peace program.

From Birth in Blighty

It's the little things I miss about Azerbaijan -- the delicious plump tomatoes, the breeze off the Caspian Sea on warm spring days, or the way you can do a U-turn in the middle of a six-lane highway and no one bats an eyelid.

Friday Mosque Another Victim of Crackdown?

It's a modest affair -- a squat, gray, stone building a short hop from the Maiden's Tower in Baku's walled city.

Will Azeri Regime Be Hauled Over the Coals?

Rape, electric shocks, serious beatings, forced confessions -- it's all there in a damning report released by Human Rights Watch last week. Azerbaijan is experiencing its gravest human rights crisis of the past decade, the report says, and urgent action needs to be taken.

Quake Still Reverberates Throughout the World

Armineh Karapeti, the UK coordinator of the All Armenia Fund, is still trying to raise money for the earthquake that hit her homeland 15 years ago last month.

Little Seasonal Cheer For Baku Street Kids

Spare a thought as you dig into your turkey and roast potatoes this Christmas for two small boys in the capital of Azerbaijan.