Suburban Georgian

MTBarbaris serves Georgian food at prices that are hard to find downtown.
Barbaris is the kind of restaurant that is becoming increasingly hard to find in the center. Rising rents have been squeezing out small democratic cafes, which are being replaced by upmarket fine-dining establishments and cafes run by the big-chain restaurateurs. Luckily, further out from the center, these reasonably priced, down-to-earth eateries can still be found -- Barbaris is one such cafe.

The Caucasus restaurant is situated on the second floor of a modest building located on a quiet street. The interior follows a typical style found in many Caucasus restaurants. There are paintings of mountain villages, clay wine jugs and various ethnic knickknacks and figurines on display.

The menu lists mainly Georgian cuisine plus some other Caucasus dishes. Cold starters include the bean dish lobio (green -- 130 rubles, red -- 120 rubles), adzhapsandali braised vegetables (140 rubles), and spinach pkhali (120 rubles), while hot starters include chicken satsivi with a walnut sauce (180 rubles) and hot red lobio (130 rubles). Among the soups, there is kharcho stew (180 rubles) and the breakfast favorite khash with pig trotters (150 rubles). Of course, there are shashliks: lamb (280 rubles), beef (250 rubles) and pork (250 rubles), and lamb lyula kebabs (260 rubles). There are five varieties of khachapuri, including the restaurant's own house specialty, the "barbaris" cooked on a skewer (150 rubles).

Abkhazian wine starts at 100 rubles a glass or 600 rubles for 900 milliliters. Draft beers include Zolotaya Bochka (70 rubles a half-liter), Heineken (100 rubles a half-liter) and Krusovice (170 rubles).

Barbaris: 17 Proyezd Rusanova, 189-0089, 180-2003, noon-11 p.m., M. Sviblovo.