Serb Grill on the River

MTThe renovated Boemi serves tasty food on a boat moored on the river.
The legendary Serbian restaurant is back. Boemi, which has been serving up a traditional Serbian grill menu for over 10 years, has reopened in a new location and the results are impressive indeed.

Boemi's new lodgings are located aboard a floating pontoon, moored 50 meters up the Moscow River from the Southern River Port. The restaurant makes good use of its riverside location -- the wall facing the river is fitted with large windows, which provide pleasant views across the water and allow ample sunlight to filter in. The interior is a balanced blend of modern design and historical touches. With the exception of the dark-wood floorboards, the overall color scheme is a mix of bright stained white wood and pale raw pine. There is a vague nautical theme with the use of heavyset enclosed lamps, the kind found aboard ships. Historical framed maps hang about the walls and various knickknacks are carefully positioned about the place to good effect. Overall, the interior's feel is one the most successful of Moscow's recently opened restaurants.

Naturally, the menu lists all the Serbian favorites, all at low prices for huge portions. There is the classic Serbian "hamburger" pljeskavica, which comes served at nearly 30 centimeters in diameter and costs just 300 rubles. The cevapi minced kebabs also come in a similarly huge portion and also cost 300 rubles. Either dish could easily be shared between two (or more) people, and most guests here indeed seem to order these dishes to be placed in the center of the table.

Other traditional dishes available include a shopska mixed vegetable salad with handmade cheese (200 rubles), three varieties of chorba soup (beef -- 130 rubles, lamb -- 140 rubles and river fish -- 140 rubles). Boemi also stocks an excellent selection of Balkan wines starting from around 700 rubles a bottle, while draft beer starts at 190 rubles for a half-liter of Budweiser.

Boemi is definitely worth a visit -- just keep in mind that it is a bit remote and not the kind of place you'd want to have to walk out from late at night. Best to phone a cab.

11/2 Prospekt Andropova, Bldg. 1, (499) 617-0190, noon-11 p.m., M. Kolomenskaya.