Dim Sum at Dim Sim

MTDim Sim offers 20 varieties of original dim sum plus 40 different sauces.
The new Asian restaurant Dim Sim should certainly not be associated with the greasy deep-fried snack-bar staple found throughout Australia. In fact, the difference could not be more pronounced. If the Australian dumpling variant, dim sim, is a bastardized knockoff of Chinese dim sum, then the new restaurant is a refined Asian reproduction.

The restaurant is located in a basement on Leninsky Prospekt, among the posh shops that line the street and Dim Sim seems to be aiming to attract this boutique clientele. The single-hall interior follows a familiar design found in many of Moscow's upmarket Asian eateries. Black is the predominant color, with swathes of red used to liven up the design. The overall feel is slick, but stark. A plasma screen showing aquatic scenes softens things up.

The menu describes the food served as a fusion of Japanese, Chinese, Italian and French -- which in practice means Japanese sushi, sashimi and rolls, plus Chinese dumplings and spring rolls with a smattering of Euro salads and mains. Perhaps keeping in mind the weight-watching fashionistas shopping in the area, all the dishes come with a calorie count.

The sushi section offers nothing particularly new, but the dim sum selection is quite interesting. This is probably one of the largest selections of dim sum in Moscow: 20 varieties, each coming with five pieces and ranging in price from 240 rubles for tofu, noodles and mushrooms up to 510 rubles for crab with cheese. A separate section lists half a dozen "ancient" dim sum recipes, which are ordered by the individual piece starting at 70 rubles for a vegetable dim sum shaped like an octopus. There is a smaller range of spring rolls with six varients starting at 380 rubles for spring rolls with cheese, mayonnaise, avocado and iceberg lettuce and going up to 490 rubles for cheese, mayonnaise, avocado, iceberg lettuce and crab.

The mains basically consist of numerous different cuts of meat and fish, which can either be grilled or steamed. This straightforward selection is spiced up, however, with what has to be the city's largest range of sauces -- 40 in total.

Dim Sim: 25 Leninsky Prospekt, 626-4126, noon-midnight, M. Shabolovskaya.