A Small Slice of Serbia

MTYugos cooks home-style Balkan cuisine with a focus on grilled meat.
Yugos, one of the city's few Serbian restaurants, has just had a makeover. Dropping its previous beige color scheme, it has chosen a strikingly bright, patriotic mix of red, blue and white. The interior nonetheless remains cozy, and the Balkan pop shown on the plasma screens only adds an authentic touch.

As should be expected, the menu features an ample selection of what Serbian cuisine is famous for -- grilled meats. The grill section includes 17 dishes, with numerous choices starting at 310 rubles, including traditional cevapi kebabs, the popular Serbian "hamburger" pljeskavica (both also available with homemade cheese for 350 rubles) and some handmade Serbian sausages. Other, more expensive, grilled dishes include an assortment of shashliks (chicken, pork and beef -- 380 rubles) and a meat plate with sausages, sliced pork and beef, pljeskavica and shashliks (450 rubles).

Also served is pita bread with various stuffings (spinach, cheese or mushrooms -- all 190 rubles, with meat -- 220 rubles).

All the soups sell for just 96 rubles and the range is good, including two varieties of chorba (with beef and with lamb), as well as a chicken, vegetable and porcini soup. Salads are similarly inexpensive: a shopska salad costs 130 rubles, while a Serbian salad sells for 120 rubles.

A true rarity for Moscow is the selection of tasty Montenegrin wines, which start at 800 rubles a bottle.

40/22 Nikoloyamskaya Ul., Bldg. 4, 915-3152, 9 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. & Sun. noon-11 p.m., M. Taganskaya.