Tourist Appeal to a ""T""

MTPivnoi Club T offers reasonable prices and a great downtown location.
Pivnoi Club T is a new beer restaurant that has opened in the former premises of the restaurant Osteria. And the location is certainly something to boast about -- it's just around the corner from Red Square, in the historic Gostiny Dvor building. What's more, its second-floor positioning provides some great views of the churches along Ulitsa Varvarka, making it an appealing refreshment spot for tourists on their way from the Kremlin to Kitai-Gorod.

The restaurant's interior has changed little since its Osteria days. It has retained the same warm yellow color scheme and the tightly packed row of framed historical newspaper advertisements running around the walls. The turn-of-the-last-century ads are also found in the lavatories. The overall feel is reminiscent of the Kvas or Gorozhanin restaurants, with their similar thematic interiors.

The super-central location might lead you to expect Pivnoi Club T to be expensive, but the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Lowenbrau is the least expensive beer, at 110 rubles for a half-liter or 200 rubles for a liter mug. Other beer options include Krusovice dark or light (160 rubles a half-liter), Velvet (170 rubles for 400 milliliters), Spaten (155 rubles a half-liter), Franziskaner unfiltered (160 rubles a half-liter) and Hoegaarden (180 rubles a half-liter).

The restaurant does not take any risks with the food side of the menu and offers all the dishes that you would expect to see at a Russian beer restaurant. There is a range of sausages starting at 220 rubles for pork with bacon and cabbage burgher-style. Boiled prawns go for 150 rubles. A variety of salamis and hams, all 150 rubles, makes for a slightly unusual addition to the menu. Soups start at 110 rubles for the soup of the day, and salads include a classic Caesar, 270 rubles, Caesar with salmon, 320 rubles, and a prawn cocktail, 250 rubles. Mains start at 300 rubles for beef braised in a cream sauce with potatoes and mushrooms and go up to 810 rubles for lamb chops with demi-glace sauce and vegetables.



3 Ul. Varvarka, Gostiny Dvor, entrance 16, 2nd floor, 232-9110, 11 a.m.-11 p.m., M. Kitai-Gorod.