Kurils Culinary Concept

MTKurily embraces Japanese cuisine as well as Russian and even Mexican.
We won't hand over the islands!" is the motto of the new restaurant Kurily, named after the archipelago that Russia and Japan have been feuding over since the end of World War II. This is no headquarters of far eastern nationalists, however -- rather it is the new name of the rebranded Yamatoria, a Russian/Japanese restaurant that was located in the same spot. And the name Kurily better reflects the restaurant's culinary concept, given that, as before, the menu is still split between Russian and Japanese dishes.

The interior has seen some small changes. Japanese motifs remain, but the overall color scheme has been livened up with the addition of orange and yellow tones, giving the eatery a warmer feel.

Kurily offers the standard sushi, sashimi and rolls, there is a small selection of soups such as miso (100 rubles) and a seafood ramen noodle soup (200 rubles). There are also gyoza dumplings with pork (130 rubles) and prawns (130 rubles), and noodle dishes such as yaki soba (230 rubles) and udon yaki (300 rubles). Hot mains average around 250 rubles.

The Russian/European section has salads including stolichny (200 rubles) and Caesar with chicken (270 rubles) or tiger prawns (320 rubles). Cold starters include more classically Russian dishes such as herring and potato (140 rubles), lightly salted salmon (180 rubles) and beef tongue with horseradish (200 rubles). Soups are also typically Russian: borshch (150 rubles), meat solyanka (160 rubles) and the Rostov-style ukha (140 rubles).

Keeping things truly eclectic, there is also a Mexican section, including enchiladas (250 rubles), quesadillas (260 rubles) and fajitas (380 rubles) -- all available with beef or chicken -- plus a pasta section starting at 300 rubles for either spaghetti carbonara or tagliatelle with porcini.

The bar list is extensive and includes Japanese sake starting at 100 rubles for 100 grams, Russian vodka starting at 60 rubles for 50 grams and Kurily's own house beer for 80 rubles a half-liter.

29/1 Nikoloyamskaya Ul., 915-3894, noon-last guest, Fri. & Sat. noon-5 a.m., M. Taganskaya.