They're Biting at Yorsh

MTYorsh's own hot-smoked fish goes perfectly with the tasty house beers.
Yorsh is not your run-of-the-mill beer restaurant. Unlike most, it avoids German and Czech themes. Its menu doesn't even center on steaks, sausages or other meaty treats. Fishing is the focus at Yorsh, and river fish are the catch of the day.

Yorsh is a chain created by the Lite-Life group, the restaurateurs behind the Tanuki, Zhyoltoye More and Da Giacomo. The recently opened Ulitsa Milashenkova branch is the latest in the Yorsh network, which also includes two equally noncentral branches on Varshavskoye Shosse and Ulitsa Pererva.

Fishing may be the theme, but that doesn't mean that the restaurant is decked out like a cliched fisherman's hut. Overall, the interior is bright and slick. The furnishings may be heavy set, but they are made of cheerful lightwood. Comfortable booth seating is positioned around the sides of the main hall, which has large windows across the front. There is no Fashion TV on the huge projection screens, rather fishing videos show anglers doing what anglers do -- baiting hooks, reeling in their catch, slicing off heads and so on.

The menu lists all the traditional fishy beer snacks, such as boiled crayfish (90 rubles per 100 grams) and prawns (360 rubles for 400 grams), spicy calamari rings (185 rubles), as well as other typical beer snacks including dark (80 rubles) and light (85 rubles) fried garlic bread. Grilled seafood includes sturgeon shashlik (480 rubles) and salmon steak (460 rubles). For dedicated meat-eaters, there are even five varieties of sausages (all 320 rubles).

The menu's real drawing card, however, is its selection of salted and smoked fish. The salted selection includes such alehouse rarities as sabre fish (100 rubles per 100 grams), smelt (165 rubles), Caspian roach (90 rubles), roach (90 rubles) and bream (90 rubles). The delightful hot smoked fish, prepared in-house, include omul (90 rubles per 100 grams), gray mullet (65 rubles), tench (55 rubles), bream (55 rubles) and the pick of the bunch, mackerel (65 rubles).

The house draft beer is tasty and goes for 90 rubles for a half-liter of light filtered and unfiltered. House red costs 120 rubles.

15 Ul. Milashenkova, 610-3229, 24 hours, M. Timiryazevskaya.