Far From Pint-Sized Bar

MTGradus Bar has five halls, including an expansive main bar room.
If any bar could get away with calling 400 milliliters a pint, Gradus Bar is it. The place has a lot going for it. For starters, it's big -- there are five separate rooms and the main hall is huge. The ceilings are high, especially considering that it is housed in a basement. The interior is refined and classy without being stuffy. There are some exposed brick walls and leather-bound chairs and sofas, but the overall decor is still slick and modern. The main bar is particularly long, with plenty of room for pulling up a stool.

The menu features lots of classic bar snacks, beer-friendly mains and a few interesting extras. Classic beer nibbles include onion rings (100 rubles), pork ribs (220 rubles), chicken wings (220 rubles) and the local favorite, boiled crayfish (three critters for 450 rubles). More unusual snacks include cold-smoked mackerel (190 rubles) and smoked venison (220 rubles). The cold starters feature ample vodka bites, including lightly salted salmon (220 rubles) and herring (200 rubles), field mushrooms (180 rubles), a salted pickle selection (180 rubles) and the Ukrainian-pleasing salo, homemade salted pig fat (160 rubles).

The pastas include two varieties of fettuccini (porcini -- 280 rubles, seafood -- 300 rubles), spaghetti carbonara (260 rubles) and lasagna (280 rubles). There is a good sausage selection averaging around 300 rubles as well as steaks averaging around 575 rubles.

Being primarily a beer bar, Gradus Bar naturally has a wide range of draft beers, with more than a dozen imported beers on tap averaging around 170 rubles each. The menu also lists three house beers (unfiltered, unfiltered wheat and red) at 150 rubles each.

The menu may call them all pints, but Gradus Bar's opening press release announced that its pints are 400 milliliters. So it will be up to the customer to judge -- just what is a pint and do they serve it here. All the same, it's a pleasant place for a cold brew.

26 Ul. Sretenka, 607-1491/0713, noon-midnight, M. Sukharevskaya.