Yakudza Settles Down

Looks like Gosti was just dropping by, as the downtown cafe that opened less than a year ago is already gone. In its place has opened Yakudza, a pan-Asian eatery. Yakudza started out as a delivery-only service but has now expanded with the opening of the cafe just off the square by Belorussky Station. Gosti's deep red lighting and smoky interior are gone, having been replaced with a rather general Japanesque design. The odd print and some kimono-clad dolls are scattered around its single small room, a plasma screen shows nature scenes, and some fairly up-tempo dance music plays in the background.

While the online delivery menu may be divided into Japanese, Chinese and Thai, the eat-in menu is not, and overall it doesn't differ strongly from that of most other sushi bars around town. As would be expected, the sushi, sashimi and rolls take up the majority of the menu. The remaining dishes could be described as pan-Asian or maybe just plain generic Asian.

The Thai selection seems to consist of coconut soup (249 rubles), although the web site classifies some other sweet and sour dishes and the like as Thai as well. There are quite a few Japanese soups, such as miso with tofu (99 rubles) and miso with salmon (225 rubles) and udon soup with prawns (220 rubles). Mains include pork teriyaki (390 rubles) and chicken teriyaki (270 rubles) and a sweet and sour chicken (265 rubles). There are 14 types of small yakitori kebabs, starting at 60 rubles for mussels and going up to 220 rubles for a sea scallops wrapped in bacon. Mixed in with the Asian dishes are a handful of European offerings such as an onion soup for 195 rubles and, astoundingly for such a democratic establishment, foie gras for 1,045 rubles.

Draft beer starts at 120 rubles for a half-liter of Sibirskaya Korona, Budweiser dark goes for 180 rubles and Hoegaarden costs 190 rubles.

1 Lesnaya Ul., 251-1109, 11 a.m.-11 p.m., M. Belorusskaya.